UNC School of the Arts- Tailoring- Coat - Draper and Stitcher
In this class, we focus on learning the basics of theatrical tailoring techniques like padstitching.
UNC School of the Arts- Speed Draping- Pointed Sleeve mockup - Draper and Stitcher
This was an exercise in patterning sleeves, and the goal was to match the picture as best as we could. I ended up patterning the sleeve similar to a leg of mutton, but the top gets sewn together at the top to make the point before it’s set in.
UNC School of the Arts- Speed Draping- Striped Blouse mockup- Draper and Stitcher
The goal was to make a top as close to the picture as possible. I created an initial mock-up of the top before stripping the fabric to check my style lines and fit.
mock up
UNC School of the Arts- Speed Draping- Control sleeve mockup- Draper and Stitcher
The control sleeves end after the second slash section.
UNC School of the Arts- Speed Draping- Balenciaga Coat 1963- Draper and Stitcher
In a class period, we are given 3 hours to drape half of an image. In this exercise there was no back, so it was left up to interpretation.
UNC School of the Arts- Speed Draping- Afternoon Dress 1895- Draper and Stitcher
For this speed drape, we had more images to work with and had to drape an overlay on the bodice.
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 3- 1911 Corset- Draper and Stitcher
For this assignment, a draft was given to pattern the corset based on our model’s measurements. I then made a mock-up and made the corrections. The corset was sewn together, and all raw edges were covered with ½” twill tape. The back was treated differently, and one side was bagged out and the other was folded under to create boning channels. Flossing and lace were applied before the back was attached. The back was connected to the red of the corset, allowing the corset to have an alteration point at the back.
Mock up
Mock up
Mock up
Pattern
Modeled by Arianna Baird
Modeled by Arianna Baird
Modeled by Arianna Baird
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 3- Knitwear foundation and Body modification- Draper and Stitcher
The foundation is made of power mesh, the body is a heavier weight, and the sleeves are a lighter weight. The shoulder modifications are made with heavy sports mesh. The chest is made of latex foam with a layer of cotton batting and then spandex over it.
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 3- Super Hero Fashion- Draper and Stitcher
The side panels of the leotard are a non-stretch fabric, and all the blue details are filled with elastic piping.
Mock up fitting
Mock up fitting
Leotard pattern
Fashion Fitting
Fashion Fitting
Tights pattern
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 3- Knitwear- Draper and Stitcher
This assignment was to drape a garment based on a reference picture. The pattern is one piece, and the front crosses over. It had to be hemmed on the wrong side of the fabric. The sleeves are double-fold hemmed along with the bottom of the back of the shirt. The neckline and crossover are bound. Finally, for the gathered section, I made a channel by flat-felling the seam, putting buttonholes in it, and then tacking the laces in the tube.
Drape
Drape
Pattern
Fashion fitting
Modeled by Inga Domenick
Modeled by Inga Domenick
UNC School of the Arts, Costume Tech 3, garment recreation, Draper and Stitcher
For this project, we had to pattern a shirt either in a different size or the same size as the shirt we were shown. I chose to pattern it in a different size. There was also a focus on making sure our center front and back yoke were pattern matched. The front had a facing built, which also acted as a facing for the front of the collar. The yoke had two layers, one acting as a facing, so the shoulders and yoke seam were encased. The only serged edges seen in the garment are those of the side seams and sleeves.
Shirt tasked with recreating
Shirt tasked with recreating
UNC School of the Arts, Costume Tech 3, Shirt Waist, Draper, and Stitcher
For this project, we had to pattern a shirtwaist from 1914 based on a catalog photo. I made a mock-up and made some corrections. One challenge of this project was that none of the insides could be serged. It had to be alternatives, so I chose Hong Kong finishes using seam binding. To keep the waist cinched, elastic was used.
Mock up
Mock up
Photo for refernce
Pattern
Modeled by Nikki Harada
Modeled by Nikki Harada
Modeled by Nikki Harada
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 3- ½ Scale Dress - Draper and Stitcher
For this assignment, we were given a sketch and told to recreate the dress with the sleeves of the coat. I decided to flat pattern mine, then made a mock up and then went into fashion fabric once I addressed fit and style. The skirt was cut on the bias while the top was cut straight of the grain.
Reference photo
Mock up
Pattern
UNC School of the Arts, Costume Tech 3, Patterning exercises, Draper and Stitcher
These were all exercises in draping and flat patterning. The shawl collar was draped as well as the gathered at the bust, and the pleated skirt was draped. The pleated petal top was flat patterned.
Pleated Skirt
Pleated Skirt
Pleated Skirt Pattern
Gathered at Bust
Gathered at Bust
Gathered at Bust Pattern
Petal Bodice
Petal Bodice
Petal Bodice Pattern
Shawl Collar
Shawl Collar
Shawl Collar Pattern
UNC School of the Arts, Costume Tech 3, Radial Projection Trumpet Skirt, Draper and Stitcher
For this project, a drawing of the pattern was given for a trumpet skirt from a book and the assignment was to use radial projection to get it to the correct size for the half-scale mannequin
Pattern
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 2, breeches and vest, Draper and Stitcher
I flat-patterned the pants and a vest. After the mock-up, the pants fit corrections were made, and then they were turned into breeches. The vest was also flat-patterned. vest and made a canvas mock-up of the vest. After some fit corrections were made. The tabs are sewn in after the fronts and backs are bagged out, and the sides and shoulders are sewn together.
Breeches pattern
Vest Pattern
Modeled by Mya Nunéz
Modeled by Mya Nunéz
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 2, boned bodice - Draper and Stitcher
Designer: Bill Brewer
The bodice was required to be draped. I was given a sketch of a boned bodice and padded a mannequin to match the model’s measurements. After the fitting, I transferred the corrections onto the paper patterns. The bodice itself was finished with a combination of piping and bias tape, where one side of the bias tape is folded and the other is piping. The closures were sewn on, and then the embroidery was sewn on.
Sketch
Pattern
mock up
Fashion
Modeled by Natalie Juran
Modeled by Natalie Juran
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 2, Regency Corset Project - Stitcher
For this project, we were given patterns that we cut out and assembled out of coutille, I learned how to do a flat felt seam, cut/tip bones, and use a grommet presser.
Modeled by Inga Domenick
Modeled by Inga Domenick
Modeled by Inga Domenick
Modeled by Inga Domenick
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 2, Mid 20th-century Petticoat ½ scale, Draper and Stitcher
For this project, we looked at a photo of a mid-20th-century petticoat and tried to pattern something based on the photos and the measurements the photo had of the full-scale skirt.
Reference Photo, from Period Corsets
UNC School of the Arts, Costume Tech 2, Mid Ballet Petticoat ½ scale, Draper and Stitcher
For this project, we looked at a photo of a mid-ballet petticoat and translated it to half-scale. There was a big emphasis on capturing the proportions in the half-scale version
Reference Photo, from Period Corsets
UNC School of the Arts- Costume Tech 1, 1950s Dress Project, Draper and Stitcher
For the patterned dress, we first did a ½ mockup to get the feel for how to make it and get the design lines right. Then I took the blocks and modified them to be the style of the sketch given. The bodice pieces were flatlined and then sewn together, and the sleeves were put on. The skirt was sewn on, and then the neck facing was attached to finish off the edges. The bow was hand-stitched on.
sketch reference
1/2 scale mock up
Mock up fitting
fashion fitting
Pattern
Flat lining progress
