Sasha Goodner - UNCSA Productions

Draper Experience

Opera scenes/The Impresario - Buff - Waistcoat and Breeches

Designer: Nikki Harada

First Hand: Madison Anysz

I made basic blocks for this build and adapted the pants to be fall front breeches. The vest and coat had trim hand-sewn onto them.

Buff played by Andre Portis

Rendering by Nikki Harada

breeches pattern

fashion fitting

vest pattern

mock up fitting

Idomene0 - Idomeneo -Chiton and Wrap

Designer: Andrew J. Senn

First Hand: Mazie Montgomery

Stitcher: Jasmine Woodland

This build was flat patterned, the pattern was used for both both chitons. During the fashion fitting the wrap was draped on the performer. The tears were marked in the fitting to be thread traced to be sent to crafts once it was done.

Idomeneo played by Ghalip Ekber

Rendering by Andrew J. Senn

Idomeneo played by Ghalip Ekber

Rendering by Andrew J. Senn

Idomeneo played by Ghalip Ekber

Rendering by Andrew J. Senn

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

fashion fitting

pattern

Idomene0 - Arbace -Chiton and Wrap

Designer: Andrew J. Senn

First Hand: Mazie Montgomery

Stitcher: Jasmine Woodland

This build was flat patterned, and then draped on a padded form.

Arbace played by Christian Souza

Rendering by Andrew J. Senn

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

Pattern

Idomene0 - Creatan Citizens -Tops, Skirts, Chiton and Wrap Skirt

Designer: Andrew J. Senn

First Hand: Mazie Montgomery

Stitcher: Jasmine Woodland

All pieces were flat patterned. The skirts were patterned at the same time to keep proportions the same between the two. All fabrics were custom printed and had specific guidelines of where hems needed to start on the print.

Cretan Citizen played by André Portis

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

Cretan Citizen played by Aurora Sauer

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

Cretan Citizen played by Auralia Errickson

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

Adrew J. Senn

shirt pattern

wrap skirt patttern

chiton pattern

Natasha, Pierre, and the Great Comet of 1812 - Sonya - Dress

Designer: Avery Mclintock Smith

First Hand: Madison Anysz

This build was flat patterned, and the top was flatlined to cotton broadcloth while the skirt was flatlined to voile. The green trim is bias tape. The sleeves have a control sleeve with organza sewn to it to allow the white sleeve to stay up, and the yellow top sleeves were bagged out to allow for a clean finish.

Sonya Played by Tanner McIntrye

Rendering by Avery Mclintock Smith

fashion fitting

mock up fitting

Bodice pattern

Skirt pattern

Sleeve Pattern

UNC School of the Arts Stock - 17th Century Stays

First Hand: Natalie Juran

Stitcher: Zenora Collier

Stitcher: Stella Inskeep

Stitcher: Addie Reedy

I patterned the corset using a draft from the book “Stays and Corsets Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body Volume 2”. After the pattern was corrected through a fitting, everything was cut out. The fashion fabric was fused onto broadcloth with wonder under and flatlined to the coutil. Then the boning channels were sewn, the corset was put together, and all of the seams had bones besides the back panel, as that is the alteration point.

UNC School of the Arts Stock- Cartridge - Pleated Skirt

For this skirt, I was given a waist measurement and an outseam to make a cartridge-peated skirt. It’s made of a cross-grain continuous fabric cut, and the shaping is provided at the waist to account for the hips and possible bum roll. Flannel was put in the waist seam allowance to bulk up the pleats. The back seam was sewn, and the placket was put in. Then it was pleated and sewn to the waistband. On the front of the waistband, right before the skirt transitions to gather, the waistband is separated to allow for alterations if needed.

Die Fledermaus - Rosalinde - Overcoat

Designer: Gabi Hertel

First-hands: Natalie Juran Nikki Harada

For this build, I worked with another draper, Iris Barger. She made a block for the singer. I adapted the corrected block to be this open overcoat. It is fully lined, and there is a seam at the waist to allow for a better-fitting garment. I made the belt from fabric with some collar canvas to give it structure. I also made trim for the sleeves out of the same fabrics as the belt.

Rosales played by Carly Orr

fashion fitting

bodice pattern

Mock up fitting

skirt pattern

Wild Party - Eddie - Pants and Vest

Designer: Inga Domenick

First-hand: Natalie Juran

Stitcher: Stella Inskeep

I patterned the pants and vest, then corrected the patterns and cut them out of the fashion fabrics. The zip fly and pockets were put on for the fitting, and corrections were applied again. The vest's shell was constructed for the second fitting, but the vest pockets were not put on as they had changed dramatically from the first fitting. Then, the two pieces were finished.

Eddie played by Alex Ekker

pants pattern

vest pattern

Wild Party - Phil/Felon - Plus Fours

Designer: Inga Domenick

First-hand: Natalie Juran

Stitcher: Stella Inskeep

The plus fours were patterned with a pants block. A mock-up was made. Then, corrections to the pattern were made, and the fashion was cut. The pockets and fly were put in for the fashion fitting. The ends of the plus fours needed to be dropped, and the back needed to be brought out. Plackets and fake buckles were added, as this garment was a quick change.

Felon/Phil played by Jake Bryant

Plus fours pattern

Fairview - Suze - Alterations

Designer: Aman Mundle

First-hand: Natalie Juran

The church suit bought for the show was bought 2-3 sizes too large, as that was the smallest size available. Everything had to be taken in, the lining and fashion. The arm sleeves had to be changed, and the shoulder pads on the inside had to be taken out as well. The skirt had to be taken in as well. The vent on the back had to be extended as the hem was rising, and both garments had to get new zippers.

Grandma played by Elise Mcfarland

Rendering by Aman Mundle

Fitting photo

First-Hand Experience

The Rover - Wilmore - Doublet, Breeches and Cape

Designer: William Wharton

Draper: Audrey Pugh

Stitcher: Cesbastian Syrus Gomez

I cut out the mock-up and sewed it together. For the final, I flatlined the fabric, bag-lined it, sewed it together, and did the body slashes. I also did a lot of the closures. The slashes were made of bias-cut strips. A centerline was drawn, sewn a quarter of an inch away from it, and tapered at the ends. It was then cut in the middle and folded to make a bias tape-like appearance.

Wilmore played by Jack Zubieta Elliot, photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Rendering by William Wharton

Fashion fitting

Mock up fitting

The Rover - Wilmore, and Lucietta - Alterations

Designer: William Wharton

Draper: Audrey Pugh

Stitcher: Cesbastian Syrus Gomez

For Willmore, their cuffs needed to be let out, so we ungathered the bottom of the pants to extend the cuffs as much as possible. I also put ecstatic loops and other buttons as closures to allow for more movement. For Lucietta, I put a level line on the skirt and hemmed the pink skirt and the striped skirt. I also evened out the petticoat and hemmed it using an opera tuck.

Lucetta played by Elise McFarland, photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Wilmore played by Jack Zubieta Elliot, photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Twelfth Night - Viola - Jacket

Designer: Reagan Whitely

Draper: Audrey Pugh

Stitcher: Cesbastian Syrus Gomez

I cut out the mock-up and sewed it together. I helped with finishing the interior of the jacket and applying prick-stitching to the pockets.

Viola played by Grace Woosley, photo taken by Luke Jamroz

Mock up front

Mock up back

Twelfth Night - Viola and Sir Andrew Aguecheek - Alterations

Designer: Reagan Whitely

Draper: Audrey Pugh

Stitcher: Cesbastian Syrus Gomez

I took in Viola’s pants and brought up the hem. I also brought up the coat sleeves. On Andrew, I redid the cuffs to make the hem of the pants higher and lengthened the jacket sleeves. I also took the pants in and raised the hem on the other pants as well.

Viola played by Grace Woosley, Andrew Aguecheek played by Daniel Rosales, photo taken by Luke Jamroz

Viola played by Grace Woosley, photo taken by Luke Jamroz

Andrew Aguecheek played by Daniel Rosales, photo taken by Luke Jamroz

Stock - Bolero Jacket - Reconstruction

Draper: Audrey Pugh

Before the alterations, the lining was caught with folds in the collar, and interfacing was showing on the yoke and sleeve flaps. For the alterations for this jacket, we had to take out the lining, make a new collar, reset the sleeves, and make new control sleeves.

Inside before alterations

The petal on the sleeve was sewn separately from armscye and raw edge was exposed

during reconstuction

Stitcher Experience

Dangerous Corner - Freda Caplan - Dress

Designer: Sarah McElcheran

Draper: Molly Klem

First Hand: Logan Benson

I worked as a stitcher on both the mockup for the dress and the final. I enjoyed working on this dress a lot and did a lot of the hand stitching on it, like the hem of the skirt.

Freda Caplan played by Sofia Berg, photo taken by Wayne Reich

If Pretty Hurts, then Ugly must be a Muhfucka - Chorus -Jacket

Designer: Marquita Horton

Draper: Quincy D’Allessio

First Hand: Eliana Askren

My role as a stitcher for the coat came in when most of it had been constructed, but there was a lot of finishing to do. I worked on the ease pleats at the bottom of the coat and worked on preparing and sewing the sequins. I learned a lot on how to work with sequins when working on this coat.

Chorus played by Maya Mays, photo taken byWayne Reich

Mother Courage and Her Children - Various Characters - Alterations

Designer: Zoe Gilreath

Draper: Molly Klem

First Hand: Logan Benson

I worked on the fitting notes for a lot of the men in the show. I had to take in a lot of the pants and replace zippers, buttons then add suspender buttons.

1st Soilder played by Jack Eld, photo taken by Wayne Reich

The Chaplain played by Jack Zubieta Elliot, photo taken by Wayne Reich

The Cook played by Ben Millspaugh, photo taken by Wayne Reich

AJ Fletcher Opera - Orlando Paladino - Various characters

Designer: Logan Benson

Draper: Ella Moffly

I worked on sewing the patches on the suits and sewed the pleated belt. I also worked with cutting out and sewing on the chiffon strips of fabric for the river souls. Some of the strips were cut on the bias while others were cut on the straight of grain.

Rodomonte played by Kevin Spooner, photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Caronte played by Ethan Wood, photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Orlando played by Kameron Alston photo taken by Allison Lee Isley

Dance Costume Shop - Fire Bird - Various characters

Director of Shop: Marissa McCullough

Designer: Geoffrey Holder

I worked on serging the petals on the skirts and putting on the waistbands and shoulder straps.